5 minutes from Kraków's main square hangs a real Leonardo da Vinci

Everyone lines up for the Mona Lisa. Almost no one knows we have a Leonardo da Vinci too. Five minutes from the Main Market Square in Kraków hangs the Lady with an Ermine - one of only four female portraits Leonardo ever painted, and the only work of his in Poland. No sea of phones. No barrier. You stand a meter from her face. Go before everyone else figures it out. The place is called Muzeum Książąt Czartoryskich.